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FAQS

Masonary & Stone Processing

This depends on what you are cutting. If you are cutting extremely hard material, you can experiment with increasing the dosage. In our experience going above 4% does not make it any more effective and, in some circumstances, you can go as low as 0.4%.

Keep in mind that the foam is beneficial to the cutting process, it flushes away the cuttings, assists with cooling and can aid in slurry control. However, if the foam becomes an issue in your water and cuttings collection area/sump tank or water recycling equipment; 0.01 % NC-7 Antifoam will knock down the foam and make it more manageable. Please note: a few days after dosing your system, the foam generation will significantly reduce in volume.

When a tile is sealed on all sides prior to installation, it becomes water repellent and a standard sand and cement mortar might not adhere well. This is less the case with a water repellent sealer, or e.g. Fortifier PlusClick here to download our Sealer Application Rates for Enhance+® New Formula, Stain Protector™ and Fortifier Plus™.  A stone treated with a sealer which is also oil repellent, for e.g. Stain ProtectorClick here to download our Sealer Application Rates for Enhance+® New Formula, Stain Protector™ and Fortifier Plus™. will be more difficult for a tile adhesive / thinset to adhere to.
 
A high-quality POLYMER MODIFIED (polymer fortified) adhesive will overcome the repellence of the sealer. The more polymer in the adhesive the quicker it sets and the more flexible it is (also a good property for longevity as tiles expand and contract with heat and cold.
 
There are a few polymer-modified sealers that will adhere well to tiles/pavers sealed with a Chemforce™ impregnator:
Davco SMP2010™
Davco SE-7™ (with Davco Davelastic™ additive for extra adhesion)
Laticrete 254 Platinum™
Bostik Landscape Adhesive™
Mapei Granirapid™

Click here to download our Sealer Application Rates for Enhance+® New Formula, Stain Protector™ and Fortifier Plus™.

Stone which contain calcite (a form of calcium) are sensitive to acids, because the calcite in the stone reacts and immediately begins to dissolve on contact with acidic substances, including wine, vinegar, most soft drinks, citrus fruits, tomato sauce, mustard and acidic rain. 

An acidic liquid will dissolve and leach the calcite out of the stone, leaving a white layer – what the stone industry calls “etching” or “etch marks” on the surface. 

Calcitic stones include marble, limestone, travertine and onyx. Tumbled, honed and brushed versions of these stones show fewer etch marks than polished stone and will maintain their look better in entertaining areas and outdoors. 

Unfortunately no. The reason is that penetrating / impregnating sealers work by repelling water and / or oils – they do not create a film on the surface and do not stop acidic liquids from touching the treated surface. 

Consider choosing a tumbled, honed, brushed or leathered finish if you use an acid sensitive stone – these will not show up etch marks as much. 

For regular light cleaning use a pH neutral or mild alkaline cleaner. As many stones, terrazzo and concrete are acid sensitive, it is best NOT to use vinegar or any acidic cleaners. Be aware that many household cleaners may contain citrus elements which may be acidic. 

For heavy duty cleaning try Chemforce Oxitec-M, a gentle but effective oxygen cleaner which is suitable for all types of natural stone, concrete paving and tiles. 

Yes! Although many companies and brands use the terms penetrating sealer and impregnating sealer or impregnator interchangeably we would say there is a clear difference.  

Any sealer which is not visible on the surface and does not cause a significant chance to the finish of a surface can be called a penetrating sealer. BUT, not all penetrating sealers are impregnators. 2 things make a true impregnator difference and superior are a) smaller molecule size – small enough to penetrate deeply into the actual pore system of even a dense granite or marble and b) the sealing molecules make a proper chemical (covalent) bond inside the pores of the stone becoming part of the molecular matrix of the stone. Deeper penetration and chemical bonding = GREATER EFFECTIVENESS against efflorescence, picture framing and spalling and PERMANENCE. With an impregnator, even if water no longer beads on the surface, the pores of the material remain water and /or oil repellent. 

Very smooth and high polished surfaces (most indoor surfaces) – a microfibre or lamb’s wool applicator. 

Honed, matte, rough and most outdoor surfaces – a pump sprayer. High quality Silvan brand of pump sprayers are available at Bunnings in Australia at reasonable prices. Buy a sprayer where the spray shape of the nozzle can be adjusted to make a flat blade spray rather than a round spray – this helps to get even coverage. 

Never use a roller – as they do not distribute the sealer evenly over the surface and you will get areas which are well sealed and less well sealed. 

A paint brush can be ok for small, difficult to reach places such as the overhang of a pool coping. 

Excess product or product residue left on the surface.  

While brands may differ in their instructions – you never want a visible layer (a film) of product left on the surface. These are not topical coatings. Read the application instructions carefully to know how to remove excess product from the surface before it dries and forms a film. For removing product residue from the surface, plenty of white rags or towels or disposable super absorbent microfibre cloths may be necessary, particularly for dense stones.